We walked just over 800 km, set our feet down 1,418,607 times in 42 days and then we arrived in Santiago de Compostela. We had about 6 non walking days in there because of the injury early on, and extra time in the beautiful Romanic cities of Mérida and Cacéres.

These last 3 days have been pretty easy going but there was no need to rush (our flight to London was booked and not flexible) and we both weren’t sure whether we were ready to finish walking or sad to be leaving the trail behind. It is a very simple and uncomplicated life being a Peregrino/a. Literally eat-sleep-walk-repeat. The hardest decision each day is what to choose from de menú del día and whether to wash your socks or not!

One of the nights we had a room in a beautiful boutique hotel/winery and felt really spoiled. The gentleman who owned it (by the sound of it about 3rd generation) was a wealth of knowledge. As we arrived pretty early he directed us to a private garden open to the public. (More than 800 Camelia bushes!) It was a 6 km round trip but so worth it, apart from Camelias a lot of other plants too, like a private botanical garden. Apparently Galicia is big on Camelias, with several societies. The other trees we see here a lot are gumtrees!! You’d think you were in Australia sometimes. They were brought in to Spain in the early 1900’s (a monk send seeds to his family if you can believe the literature) and initially they were grown and used for support beams in the mines. (Like we do/did) When mining took a down turn in Spain the trees were used for paper pulp. They grow super tall and quick here, and like our host explained, a person can plant the trees when he is 50, they need virtually no care and attention and when he retires at age 60-65 sell them and has money for retirement. And you don’t need much in Spain to retire on in the current climate. The disadvantage is though, that now there aren’t enough native forest (made up of Oak, Pine and Chestnut). With all the consequences attached to this. But an oak tree need 3 times as much to reach a decent size so you can see the temptation!

We also saw lots of vegetable gardens as quite a few families grow their own produce and keep chickens. Very different from the earlier days out of Sevilla.

The arrival in Santiago was a bit of a let down to be honest. After following our trustly little arrows through little villages, forests, creek beds and what not we managed to not see many when we entered town. We did see the Cathedral’s tower so had a vague idea where to go, but had imagined it different I suppose.

Once there we off course took the obligatory photo on the steps and set out to find a hotel. Got the last room in a very central hotel, so we were lucky. The rest of the day we poked around the old town, sitting down for a drink when we fancied and ran into Henk, who we then had dinner with.

Another day relaxing (after a big sleep in!) and not doing much saw us well rested.

Spit the dog at the base! Cheeky thing sunbathing on a holy symbol!

Roman bridge from 915AD just outside Silleda.

Snake alert…

Modern Albergue in Bandeira. Only 6 yrs old and very clean and comfortable.

Some scenery, Capilla de Santiago and the last hotel on the trail, Pazo de Galegos.

Some of the Eucalyptus forest we walked through on and off.

Pulpo de Galegos, local octopus dish. Very tasty!

For our Dutch friends: nu weten we waar Sinterklaas zijn paard heeft staan!

Arrived in Santiago de Compostela. ☑️

Kilometre 0

The cathedral was designed by Maestro Mateo in the 12th century. Building projects all over Santiago in the prosperous 18th century saw the Cathedral getting a new facade. Pilgrims in the ancient times quite often slept on the stone floors of the Cathedral for their first night. Unfortunately the botafumeiro, a huge 80 kg and quite possible the largest thurible in the Catholic Church, is under renovation, as was most of the inside of the Cathedral.

our last day in Santiago was spend….in the bus! We decided to take a trip to Muxia and Finsterre (Galego, in Spanish it is Finisterre, or finish terra/end of the world). We always thought if we had the time we would walk this as well, but alas, we haven’t. So we booked a bus trip and together with another (eek) 40 or so people we did the tourist thing. It was actually a great trip. Muxía and Finsterre are positioned on the Atlantic Ocean, one interior side (F) and the other exterior side. Wild ocean and country indeed. That part of the Spanish coast is called Costa Muerte or Coast of Death because of the many shipwrecks it has. The combination of granite boulders extending into the ocean, the bad winds and the cloudy weather contributing to that. A big one in recent times has been the sinking of an oil tanker off Muxía, losing millions of litres of oil, in 2012. No-one was held responsible after a lengthy inquiry, and to help the locals come to terms with the devastation of their backyard, loss of income because it was a huge economic loss, and the fact they had to ‘forgive’ the casualties of the accident, a big monument was build on the site. It is called ‘ the wound’.

For a long time Finisterre was thought to be the most western part of Europe, but alas, seems Portugal gets that title as one of their little capes extends another 16 km again.

We made a resolution to walk this part if we would ever do another Camino. (Adding about 130 km to a trip, nothing much really 🤣)

We stopped at a few little villages, had a beautiful seafood lunch (Galicia is know for its superb seafood, especially their octopus, or pulpo as they call it), and then we were home again.

So this is the end of our blog….sad to be finishing walking. It is such a simple life! No cares other than not to lose the yellow arrows and make sure there is food and water. And a bed at the end. Get up in the morning wear set A of your clothing. Get out of the shower I the afternoon, it is set B. And that’s all there is….Menu del día, choice of 3 for entre, mains and desert. How hard can it be? We will miss the little arrows, the looking for mates at the end of the day, the simplicity of life as a walking traveller, slowly like time itself. But there’s nothing else to do anyway, so why rush? We will not miss the snorers (sorry guys and girls), the 5 or 530 am bag rustlers and the rowdy late arrivals. But maybe we’re just getting old…

Coast of Muxía, showing the legendary St James’ stone boat (upside down). They’re great on superstition and legends here…

And this was said to be his sail….(not making this up). Legend has it, that if you pass under the hole at the bottom through to the front and do that 3 or 7 times, (depending who tells the legend apparently) you will never get back ache. 🤔

The Wound. A huge fractured bit of stone.

The only waterfall in Europe that empties in the Ocean. (Ézaro)

Yet another Roman bridge, though this one has just the foundations and the top bit is newer. Apparently the Romans got into Southern Spain in about 100BC, but not into Galicia until 200AC.

This part had more that 200 windmills, and that is being conservative. Galicia uses a lot of hydro energy as well as wind energy. 40% of their energy production gets exported to other parts of Spain.

Well dear friends, here we part. We’re on the plane tomorrow for the last weeks of our trip but that’s outside this blog. Hope you’ve enjoyed reading it! Or just looking at the pictures. There are many more stories to tell, so when we catch up for real you’ll hear about them. To anyone considering a Camino, we would say ‘go for it’, it really is a great experience.

Adiós amigos! Frank y Patty.

Two more days we walked through Castille y Léon, staying at lovely Requejo de Sanabria (not much there!) and then at the end of the second day we entered Galicia.

Met a very inspiring Dutch gentleman, who at age 80 has walked lol the way already from Mérida! He thinks this is his last Camino. Entering Galicia we found his umbrella though at the time we didn’t realise it was his and hoped we would meet up again with another couple who we thought it belonged to. First night in Galicia we stayed in a super nice hotel, with a bath! Since we walked 29 km, last bit through the drizzle and up a muddy creek bed, this was put to good use. For the first time too we got overtaken by 4 bicigrinos (pilgrims on a push bike) who were really doing it tough along and through that creekbed. We actually overtook them again… We had been speculating how hard some of the trail would be in a pushie!

Bedbugs!!! Oh dear. We had planned a certain stop, and found out in the nick of time they had a problem with bedbugs the week before. The local Albergue in this place wasn’t too big, the town pretty small and boring, and we would have arrived before lunch. So we decided to push on. 34 km day….found out limit! During the day not many towns were passed so when we came past a small table set up with drinks and some snacks for pilgrims this was very appreciated! (Donations were asked and willingly given) The next day another big one, started early and in 4 degrees! Cleared up spectacularly though, and there were some very big views. (Read: big ascends with rewards at the top). Our host that night was very loud, very outgoing and very friendly. Slept like a log! (We all know babies don’t sleep so I will not use that phrase).

On to Ourense, not a huge walk and there are thermal baths (free) there. Minor problem: no swimmers. Arrived late and tired so wasn’t a big deal. So far this day has been one of the worst. Not for the distance, 22km, but a lot of road and entering Ourense through the industrial part. For what felt like forever!

We did meet our Dutchie (Henk) and we also met the couple again we thought lost the umbrella…only they didn’t. 🤣. Carried it for a few days for nothing and we’re going to leave it behind in the hotel until Frank spotted the advertising. We then concluded it was Henk’s. Took us another few days to catch up with Henk but he got his brollie back when we met him again in Cea. Funny how it goes sometimes. Oh, and I lost a toenail in Ourense…weird how that happened with a blister on the cuticle a few weeks earlier. I thought we got long in tooth as we get older but apparently I get long in the toe. Wonder if I get a discount when I next have a pedicure. 🤔

Apart from the thermal baths Ourense has 16 Gothic churches and a Cathedral. We visited it, it was started in 550 AD, then restored in 1220. Very impressive!

A few more days between 20-30 km, another donativo bar (Casa Cesar, run by a retired truckie, a real character) and a bar that is entirely decorated by pilgrim shells on the inside. So we added ours…

After a few nights in hostels we decided we’d be real peregrinos and booked into the municipal Albergue (council). This one had 20 bunkbeds in the one dormitory. Potential here for a whole symphony orchestra…all for just €6.00. Surprisingly quiet night and we slept well. Amazing what being tired does.

Cea is perhaps best known for its artisan bread. The recipe is well guarded, and there are high standards. From the way the wheat has been ground, the mill stones used and even the water. The locals tell about a time there were 50 bakers in town, but this has dwindled to about 17. We bought a half loaf for breakfast…it tastes a bit like a really good sourdough. Even the types of wood that heat the oven are specified, so the recipe is guarded and monitored the same way that wines have a D.O.

Today we made it to Estación de Lalín, another big day. Toes and knees hurting: lots of bitumen and up and downs. I feel the last few days could have been made easier with a couple of decent flying foxes strung together! Yesterday there was an ascent of 220 meter over nearly 4 km….hard work!

And we have 3 days left and 57 km left! We intend to arrive at Santiago the Compostela the 25th so we have some time to explore this wondrous mysterious city. It feels unreal to be so close!

Old churches galore…every little town has one.

Entering Galicia, much water here!

Muddy tracks a daily occurrence, even if it doesn’t rain. And usually just before we enter a town so our boots are dirty…

‘This is where I found the umbrella’….

Spectacular views, hills covered in heather, lavender and other wildflowers

Closing in on Santiago. Donativo refreshments, a hostel we stayed at where we had to point to Australia, and the bar full of shells. Maria and I, she’s finished her wine, me in dire need of a coffee!

These funny constructions apparently are still used to dry corn. We are just starting to see them now, obviously a Galego thing…

Friendly locals everywhere. We were invited to come and raid one gardeners cherry tree…yum!

Cathedral St Martin in Ourense

pan de Cea anyone?

So close!! We’ll miss this yellow arrows…

Been a while and I apologise. Three makes a bigger crowd and we’ve been catching up and talking (and eating and drinking) besides all the walking we have done.

Unfortunately the walking for 3 days out of Salamanca was not quite as pretty as we have had, straight gravel roads through wheat fields following beside the National road. At least Dirk was running so for him it was over in a shorter time! On top of that the temperature dropped and it drizzled. Anyway, after that both the scenery and the temperature improved, and we have had some gorgeous walks. Variety in terrain, scenery and in roads travelled. Gravel road, bush paths and a little bit of bitumen too. But also variance in altitude, which always makes for more interesting walks and off course rewards at the top!

Zamora and Puebla de Sanabria are the highlights regarding towns with lots of Roman History again. Nice to arrive on time and explore these ancient cities at leisure. Because Dirk got there way before us he could dus our accommodation (a mix of hostels and albergues, depending on our tolerance of fellow peregrinos.) I know I should display tolerance, understanding and patience but there is only so much snoring a person can tolerate. Whole symphonies, when one starts the other 15 join!! And what is it with the news updates in Spanish or Italian at, I kid you not!, 530 am?? Not a thing in communal seeping quarters right?

Anyway, most people we meet are genuinely kind and pleasant.

Culinary treat we encouraged to try, but will NEVER order: cock’s comb. Thanks but no thanks. No amount of vino Tinto will get that down! Last night on the other hand we were treated to a menu del día, which is quite common here and we usually have one every day. But this one was very special, it’s the chef going the extra mile re presentation and what was on offer. You could tell he loved his job, took it serious and took pride in his work. 4 Courses, wine, bread and coffee and spirits for €10 per person! (Ie $16.00)

Today we said goodbye to Dirk at Puebla de Sanabria. He will make his way to Madrid to catch a flight to Morocco and we continued for another 12 km to arrive where we are now. We have just 240km to go to Santiago de Compostela and we are feeling great. No more sore legs/feet/knees and only the odd blister. We have now left the Via de la Plata and continued onto the Sanabrés. The weather has been warm, 27 degrees, but looks like it’s going to change to much cooler (which is only a problem in the evenings) and maybe rain. But that is Galicia for you…more rain than anywhere in Spain.

Hasta luego amigos

Common dining room of the Casa Rural on Dirk’s first night. Very cute place, 4 to a room. Our companion being a very kindly Frenchman who logged half Tasmania during the night. 😂.

Villanueva de Campeán, not very big and the greatest attraction a 16th century Franciscan Convent now in ruins.

Tonite’s Albergue also gets the medal for most leaky shower…while I showered upstairs Dirk had water coming down the walls downstairs! Oh, and just 1 bar, nothing else, and if as a resident you don’t have internet you can get it at the town hall, but only 3 afternoons per week, for a few hours…and we’re whining about NBN?

Must not follow the wrong route here!

Rain rain…

Zamora

Gorgeous walk crossing the Rio Esla and following it for a while.

My view when Dirk is not running…not often😉

Passed through some little villages that felt totally deserted, houses with lots of mud brick or packed earth walls. Lots in ruin too. Most have less than 100 people…

Keeping up appearances….I think not.

Wednesday the 1st, and the day both Dirk (7am) and Naomi (10pm) arrive. Managed with a bit of difficulty to keep it a surprise from Dirk. Explored Madrid the first days, visiting the Crystal Palace (a huge Victorian green house with 4 climate zones in it), Botanical gardens, the Cathedral and adjacent Palacio del Reys (Kings Palace), a few smaller churches, and numerous small old town streets. The weather was perfect for exploring.

We also did a cooking class where we were taught how to make traditional paella and tapas. And yes, we have the recipes…

Then a day trip to Segovia. This is only 30 min by (fast) train. Segovia has the world’s largest preserved aquaduct. Apparently it is 16 km long, including the underground parts. Also visited the Alcazaba of Segovia (a small fort with palace attached). All very well restored and some parts still authentic and well preserved. Trained it back in time for Naomi to fly back home. We caught the train to Salamanca the next day, explored it and started walking again the day after, picking the trail up where we left it the Tuesday before. But that story has to wait…

Palacio Del Rey’s-Madrid

Leadlights in the Cathedral of Madrid

Surprise!

Sightseeing in Madrid

Cooking class with Ferdi and Sandra

The Alcazaba- Segovia

And the famous Acuaducto de Segovia

The New and Old Cathedral of Salamanca, butted right next to each other. Though the new one is old too. Went into the clock tower of the old one.

Tomorrow we start walking 🚶‍♀️ 🥾 and running 🏃🏻‍♂️ (Dirk, not us)

XXX

Well, whatever you all crossed it worked. The physio gave the all clear to walk albeit to take it slow. That wasn’t a problem. So on the Thursday we planned to walk to the next town with an Albergue, only 10 km or so. But the weather was hopeless, so we decided if we were going to take a bus we were going to make up for lost time. So we bussed it all the way to Béjar and then a taxi to Calzada de Béjar. All up we probably skipped a 140 km this way. And yes, it didn’t feel right, as if we were cheating or something. In the pouring rain we arrived at a Casa Rural which had its foundations in 1743! Lots of stone, and not a straight wall in sight. But. A lovely hostess (LuLu) who warmed our room when we went out for dinner. We surprisingly ran into our Spanish travellers Carmel and David again. This was to be the last time as they were going to take the bus to Salamanca the day after.

Calzada de Béjar is UNESCO heritage listed, lots of Roman remnants and a few of the streets have (abandoned) houses leaning against each other, all dating back to 1740’s.

For the next two days we had short days walking and the rain cleared. The leg held up well and we iced it where we could. The first stop was a very boring village with a bar and the Albergue. If you arrive before lunch it is along day indeed! The next was a gorgeous walk into Fuenteroble, where we were advised to stay in the municipal Albergue which was also by donation. Dinner and breakfast included. We did donate our share…That night there was a procession (!!) through town, something about ‘the light’. Didn’t quite get the meaning but about six Saints were returned to the church with a lot of celebrations. Fun to watch.

We then had two big days, first 30 km with no option to break it up and then 20 into Salamanca. The 30 was broken 3 times, so we really did take it easy! Gorgeous weather and even better scenery. The 20 into Salamanca had 1 stop about halfway but was much more undulating. We should have made another stop and didn’t, and now we pay the price. Especially the last 5 into Salamanca were very boring and we found it tough going. Been looking at the city for a long time and didn’t feel like it was coming closer any time soon. Stopped at a servo to buy two cans of drink to cool Frank’s legs down and I wonder what the locals thought 😂

But, we made it and today bussed it to Madrid to catch up with Dirk.

Hasta el proxíma semana xx

I will survive

Calzada de Béjar, nothing is straight. The well is 2000 years old apparently.

On the road again

what looks odd in this picture? Hint: it’s white and cold…

Communal evening meal at the Municipal Albergue at Fuenteroble.

Necessary rest break and I just can’t leave the storks. They are so ever present!

This toad we walked for about 20 km, 15 looking like this!

Salamanca!!!!

The

Since the last post not much walking has happened…. we did walk into Cacéres, another beautiful medieval old city centre, and while the Albergue was already booked out (9.30 am!!) we found another place to stay. After exploring the city a little we decided with it being Easter, the ankle/foot not terribly happy and so much to see, to spend another night here.

About Galisteo: there are worse places to get stuck! Galisteo is another walled town with not a lot of inhabitants but the walls (dating back to the Muslim/Mudéjar period) are so well preserved, build of river rock instead of packed earth, and you can walk just about over the whole top. Quite scary when coming down those narrow big steps and no handrail! WHS would have a field day here!

After Torremejía we came to Mérida, short walk and entered the town via the Roman pedestrian bridge. Pretty awesome sight.

Mérida was founded by the Romans in the first century BC and named Emerita Augusta. To this day it has many well-preserved relics of its Roman history. The Roman Bridge / Puente Tomano, which we crossed, is the longest Roman bridge still in existence. 790m. At its northern end is the Alcazaba, a fortification built by the Muslims. The Roman Theatre dates from 15BC and is one of the best preserved examples still standing. It also is well preserved and the mind boggles at the engineering feats. Nearby is the amphitheatre, scene of gladiatorial combats and other popular entertainment, is also well-preserved. It could hold 16,000 spectators. The Circus, which was used for horse and carriage racing, could hold 30,000 spectators. There is an aquaduct and another small bridge, and the Arch de Trojans.

We decided to give Frank’s ankle a rest and took a whole day off to meander through this impressive town. Meant we were part of their Palm Sunday celebrations and we watched the parade of the brotherhood and the floats. A lot of work goes into this. Festivities for Easter last the whole week so it will be interesting to see what happens at Good Friday, the Saturday and the Easter Sunday and Monday. It will mean we have to walk with food as we have been told not much will be open! Easter is bigger than Christmas here!

Back to the ankle…. swollen and painful. Didn’t twist or sprain, so between Dr Google and myself it was decided he probably has ankle impingement….🙃

Bought a brace, iced it and rested it and it got a whole lot better. And while the walking on sport shoes was not necessarily uncomfortable we both felt we needed more side to side support on some of the more rocky trails, and the few bits of Roman roads we have had. So, thanks to google again, we found a hiking store. Didn’t open till Monday 930am, but we went there anyway and both bought new boots. So now we’re carrying more shoes than underwear, but we have since nearly walked 50km in the new boots and ankle feels better and the walking goes better still.

After Mérida we set off for Aljucén, only about 19 km or so. Came past the Roman dam that supplied water for Mérida in Roman times. Perhaps still.

When we came through a small (read tiny) village we spotted a brand new Albergue and since we thought we might not find food in Aljucén because of the Spanish siesta, we had the menu del Día. We also looked around this new place as the hospitalera was obviously very proud of her place. We then walked the last 2.5km into town. All of 2 hostels and 2 private places with beds. 1 hostel shut it’s doors, and….the rest was ‘completo’. Even Frank with limited Spanish knew that was not good! So, with our tails between our legs we walked back to the brand new one and booked in after all! Made for a few laughs.

Next day 22km, all virtually uphill, to Alcuescar. Pretty place with narrow streets and the houses all leaning against each other. Scared to miss out on a bed again we looked for and found the Monastry Esclavos de Maria y Pobres. Quite an experience and we share the dormitory with another 22 pilgrims! Musical snoring tonight. Walking into town we did see a farmer walking his sheep to another field which was quite cute. And today especially we felt we could have been walking through Girraween or Sundown National Park as there was granite everywhere and if not the species then the shape of the vegetation looked like it as well. Great day for walking!

And then today, just after we left Alcuéscar we made the 250km mark! Yay!

Set off early as the Monastry switches the lights on at 7 am, doesn’t provide breakfast and turfs you out at 8 am so no need to hang around. We didn’t think that was an issue so started walking. It was just 7 km to the next village which in the bookhad a knife and fork printed next to it. Not silly to assume that’s good right? Would have been, only they were closed. Meant to be open but no one knew when this would happen. Typical. So we walked another whatever km to the next town and finally had breakfast at 11 am. We then decided it would be do-able for Frank’s ankle to make it to Valdesalor, yet another 10+ km. We did make it but it was good when we got there. Just now enjoying a beer, ice cubes on the ankle and booked in to the hostel. That’s IT for today 🤗

What in earth do they grown on? Rocks and more rocks!

Puente Romana

Roman hipodrome/circus, the Anfiteatro and the Teatro Romano.

The Alcazaba and the water storage two floors down, and the aquaduct. Zoom in for the storks on top!

Last but not least from Mérida, the square outside our hotel and one of the Palm Sunday floats.

New boots! 🥾

The Monastery was associated with a nursing home, some very friendly older gentlemen here.

Advantage of an early start: get to see the sunrise

Found a friend

Also found more Roman Puentas (bridges 🙃) This one is Puente de Santiago de Bencáliz.

Hasta Luego Amigos!

After leaving Monesterio, with the weather improving we went through Fuente de Cantos, where we had the most awesome accommodation yet at El Zaguán de la Plata, on to Zafra, which has a few very old and cosy squares (only they’re all but square these days!) and then to Villafranca de los Barros. Small place with not that much to do but friendly enough and had the best menu del dia yet! Today we walked the 26 km into Torremejía, which may get the medal for most boring town. Only has a population of about 2200 but it hasn’t got the Spanish feel we have had so far.

The walking has been great, mostly flat and through the country side. Seen lots of Olive groves and vineyards, lots of grain too and literally hundreds and hundreds of wildflowers. And it has been sunny! While cold when we start off about 8 (4-6 •C) it warms up quick enough when you’re walking and gets to 18-19 •C. Perfect weather for this! And every where every one is super friendly and helpful. And I love them because they understand my Spanish….well, most of the time. The ones who don’t I give the evil eye 🧿

Scenery as we walked out of Monesterio

Expansive views across Extremadura

We didn’t think this was quite the right distance but the sign is nice

Our most impressive accommodation yet, in Fuente de Cantos. Looked like the old family home was opened for pilgrims (and non pilgrims too btw). The host put in a lot of effort to make it homely and be accommodating.

Breakfast in the old stables (?)

It’s a long road but looks like it was worth it…

Albergue Vincent Van Gogh in Zafra (the best whistling canary award goes here)

And like I said: super cute but nothing is square…

Wild orchids in bloom and a very old olive tree

Long stretch today into Torremejía, some parts apparently part of a Roman road. Never seen so many grapes growing in neat rows!

The only selfie I took

Hasta luego amigos, x

After Guillena we came through Castilblanco de los Arroyos, Almadén de la Plata and Real de la Jara to arrive in Monesterio today. We have just broken the 100 km, 900 to go.

Lots of drizzly rain that turned into proper rain today….and since Monesterio is at 755 M above sea level it is COLD. The scenery has been stunning though, even the dark skies couldn’t detract from that. Saw quite a bit of livestock, lots and lots of wild flowers (photos don’t do it justice) and distant views when we finally struggled to the top of the next hill. Leaving Almadén de la Plata especially was like walking Marshall Lane in Brisbane but then for nearly 29 km….up and down and up again!

We had a very cute Communal Hostel last night, too small for photos, but it was placed in a water storage building that was build but never used for its purpose. Only could host 12 pilgrims (there were 8 of us), had a fireplace in the kitchen (washing that needed to dry got a front row seat) and true to form was stone cold at night…I think those walls were 70 cm thick! Lovely in summer but not what us Queensland softies can handle.

To top it off I am sure I heard mice going through a fellow pilgrim’s bags. All in all we didn’t sleep much and we set off at 6.45 am, in the dark and in the rain. Made good time though and as soon as darkness went we enjoyed the stunning scenery. Halfway we stopped for breakfast (by then it was 9.30-ish) and made it to Monesterio at about 12.30 pm. Because we came past it anyway we visited the Museo de Jamon. A museum dedicated to the speciality of this region, which is Iberico Smoked Ham. Very interesting, covered everything from the old fashioned ways to the modern methods and the food the pigs eat (acorns) and different classifications of the pigs and their hams. They use the stuff in everything here. You think you have vege soup and you find ham down the bottom.

Tomorrow will be an easier day as the profile goes gradually downhill for a change, and it is supposed to be drier! Not warmer, not till the end of the week!

Just outside Guillena we encountered lots of sticky mud. 6 km long we slipped and slided. The upside? We were a little taller…

Ruins we encounter a lot, some have been substantial Castillos, others farm houses. But you always wonder who lived there, what their lives would have been like and what happened.

Wild lavender, everywhere!

Cork oaks, supplying acorns, the food of the Iberico pigs.

Cerro del Calvario – 553M – just before Almadén de la Plata

Stork nest atop the bell tower

Frank enjoying a vino tinto and some olives. Total setback for that was €1.50!! You could get a super cheap hangover here!

Mr Stork (or Mrs, what do I know!) but don’t laud his/her innocence! He’s after fish…

So cute those black pigs! Finally spotted quite a few. Stopped being cute when they followed me up the hill…

The water tank hostel of last night. We also left the National Park Sierra del Norte, Andalusia. Different scenery and different region coming up, as we enter Extremadura.

Orange and mandarin trees grow along the streets in all the little villages. Apparently they paint the trunks white so they blend in with the houses! They all taste like lemons…I’ll buy mine thanks all the same.

Iberico Hams in a little shop/café.

Hasta Luego Amigos. X

After a not as early a start as we thought (it doesn’t get light till 7.30!) we set off following the guidebook. Wasn’t too complicated and we soon met some Swedish Pilgrims who pointed out the very inconspicuous arrows…then it got even easier. Walking along the road then through fields of potatoes and broccoli we came to Santiponce. It is a town build on top and around an ancient Roman settlement: Italica. (206 BC). Very interesting to spend a good hour there, and we also saw the Roman amphitheater there which was the setting for a part of episode 8 from Game of Thrones….dragons were gone though.

The most impressive visit in Santiponce though was the Monesterio de Isidor del Campo. Originally build as a residence in the 12th century it was gifted to the Cistercian monks 4 centuries later. A lot was preserved and we were glad to have seen it.

We arrived in Guillena mid afternoon, the Albergue is cute. Pilgrim’s dinner doen the road: salad, soup, French stick, wine and coffee for the equivalent cost of $12….

Shorter day tomorrow to Castilleblanco de los Arroyos.